The Proper Americano
my diatribe against aussies and the ube custard cake
It’s President’s Day - a holiday in the United States, and while many of my friends are off frolicking on a Monday, Yours Truly is hard at work thinking about coffee and emanating missives on the Coffee Q&A Livestream. And while today’s Livestream seems about Ube Custard Cake, it’s really low key about the Americano.
Throughout my career in coffee, I’ve had to endure endless suffering by Aussie coffee “pros” who like to bloviate on and on about whatever coffee topic they are pontificating about. It’s exhausting - especially when everyone knows that the genesis of Third Wave and now Modern Specialty Coffee is from Seattle. Meaning that Modern Specialty is of American origin.
Don’t get me wrong, I like the people from Oz and I don’t (necessarily) blame them for this grandstanding because they live their lives upside down, so the blood must be rushing to their heads. I actually dream of visiting The Land Down Under to see the Opera House in Sydney and tsk-tsk the cafes of Melbourne, while dressing in proper Crocodile Dundee apparel - as I’m sure all Australians do…
Time and time again, I’ve heard Aussies telling the world (and even me) what is and what is not an “Americano” versus a “long black” and even made a video about it.
But now, after 24 years in professional coffee, and 27 years in foodservice, I’m going to tell you what is an “Americano”. Dammit.
If you came to Spro, or if you go to any place where I have trained the Baristas, there is only one way: a double-shot of espresso pulled to float on top of hot water. There is no other way that is acceptable. And even the double-shot is tenuous - because it must be Perfect. It cannot be thin. It cannot break. It must hold until it is delivered to the Guest. Anything less is: Failure.
So to hear these Aussie folk tell me (or the world) that an “americano” is water and espresso mixed haphazardly, just infuriates me and makes me want to add chickory to their coffee.
I’m so incensed by this that I won’t even offer you their interpretation of “Americano” and “long black”, as such nonsense does not deserve space in this hallowed Substack. Your Gentle Coffee Mind need not be sullied by such repulsive thinking.
Suffice it to say that, if I were to make you an Americano, it would be Proper. Even if you asked me to make you a “long black”, after giving you a very hollow look for what will seem like three months, I will still prepare you a Proper Americano.
My love for this drink started in my early years of learning coffee, when I would travel to Seattle to study coffee with The Two Johns (John Hornall and John Sanders). That old Hines Public Market Coffee was the epicenter of Third Wave Coffee in the early 2000s. Bohemian interior with eclectic furniture, a five group La Marzocco Linea EE (yes, I said Five Group), a 1955 Probat UG22 roaster, and a break every day at 4:20pm.
It was a great place to learn coffee.
When I was there, I would spend the first few minutes of the morning sitting at one of the two tops near the eastern facing bay window. The sunlight would pour in warming the body while I sat there and sipped a 6 oz Americano while Dr. Dre’s “Nuttin’ But A G Thang” pumped hard on the speakers. It was during this era that I came to love the Americano.
Like I said, the Proper Americano is espresso with hot water, but you must pull the double-shot directly on top of the hot water. And it must float. And it must remain intact. Basically, it needs to look like one big shot of espresso when served. The better your espresso technique, the longer that crema will hold.
It’s really a serious test of your skills and will show the world if you are a Barista, or just a barista. If you make your Americano and question which of these you are, then you know you are the latter. Because the Proper Americano is a thing of beauty that derives joy once you see your success in preparation.
For today’s stream, I paired the Americano (made with the Espresso 99 from Spro Coffee) with the Ube Custard Cake from Gwenie’s Pastries of Rockville, Maryland. My YouTuber niece got it for me when she was down there this weekend.
If you’re unfamiliar with the cake, it’s basically the Leche Flan layered over ube-flavored chiffon cake. It’s a very Filipino-style dessert, which means I’m probably the worst person to “review” such a product.
Why? Because I’m Filipino. So I grew up eating very “Filipino” things. And when you grow up in a culture, you tend to think that your way is The Only Way - like the Americano. Certainly no Leche Flan could hold a candle to my mom’s Leche Flan.
Well, truth be told, my mom does make what many Filipinos regard as The Best Flan they’ve ever had - and better than their moms’. But that’s beside the point.
So, when it comes to Things Filipino, I have to be extra critical in my thinking because need to avoid falling into that trap and appreciate that particular interpretation for what it is. Of course, some products are just so spectacular that you just cannot help but recognize.
However, the Ube Custard Cake was enjoyable. The flan is thicker than I prefer and I would like a moister crumb, but that did not diminish my desire to House the entire cake in one go. The Proper Americano was a grand accompaniment - and since it was a 12 ounce serving, I did not run out.
Happy President’s Day (don’t know if that’s a thing).